マコンのトップワイナリーが手掛ける、最初で最後のワイン!第二の収穫という名の2021年限定キュヴェ!
マコンのトップワイナリーが手掛ける、最初で最後のワイン!第二の収穫という名の2021年限定キュヴェ!
Le guide des meilleurs vins de France2015「ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナン」はRVFで最高評価の3ッ星を獲得。「ベタンヌ・ドゥソーヴ」でも最高評価の5ッ星を得ている。
当主の「ジャン・マリー・ギュファン」は1970年代に妻と共にブルゴーニュへ移住したベルギー人。ワイン造りとは関係ない環境にいた彼だが、一気にトップ生産者の仲間入りを果たしてしまう。皆が彼を「天才」と呼ぶ。試飲をしていても芸術家のように感覚でワインを判断していく。表現も独特。ワインのパワーを表現する。
1980年からは、ネゴシアン部門である「メゾン・ヴェルジェ」を手掛け、毎年異なる60キュヴェをリリース。「シャブリ」「コート・ドール」「マコン」等、各地の葡萄栽培家や造り手と情報交換をしながら、その年の買取り区画を決めていく。
「マコン・ピエールクロ ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ」は、ピエール・クロの区画より2段階目に収穫されたブドウから造られた白ワインです。
「まず、《エン・クレイジー》。キュヴェ全体を構成する低樹齢の葡萄。樽で発酵させた後、1月以降にタンクで熟成させたこのワインは、酸味があり、収量が少ないため非常に強い果実を持ち、余韻が長いのには驚きました。丘陵部は、かなり収穫が遅く、ヴィンテージとしてはかなり印象的な結果となり、思った以上に満足しています。皆さんは、どう感じるでしょう?私はこのワインを《ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ》(シャヴィーニュの第二の収穫)と呼ぶことにした。勿論、購入してくれた人に再び誤解を与える為です(笑)。最初で最後のワインでしょう。」 by.ジャン・マリー・ギュファン
Guffens Heynen Macon Pierreclos Deuxieme Vendange de Chavigne
ギュファン・エナン マコン・ピエールクロ ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ
生産地:フランス ブルゴーニュ マコネ ピエールクロ
原産地呼称:AOC. MACON PIERRECLOS
ぶどう品種:シャルドネ 100%
アルコール度数:13%
味わい:白ワイン 辛口
■2021年ヴィンテージ情報■
「苦労と努力の年」
ジャン・マリー・ギュファンからの手紙
親愛なる友人の皆さん。2021年は、私のワインメーカーとしての長いキャリアの中で最悪のヴィンテージである、と言って驚かせるつもりはない。年間を通して天候は壊滅的だった。収穫の為の僅かな休息は、極僅か最低限の必需品を確保することを可能にしただけでした。バルサックでは霜害によって葡萄は完全に破壊され、葡萄樹も痛み、将来の収穫を危うくするほどだった。2017年以来、3回の霜に見舞われた。
霜による大きな被害
ブルゴーニュでは、我々に運はなかった。ヴェルジッソンとピエール・クロの高樹齢の葡萄樹は霜によって大きな被害を受け、霜を免れたサン・ヴェランはその後、雹に見舞われた。酷過ぎる。トゥーレットも霜に見舞われたが、幸い他の地域ほどではなかった。3つのエステートの合計31haから481ヘクトリットル、1ha当たり平均15.5ヘクトリットルのモストを得た。シャトー・クロジオ(バルサック)では、辛口も甘口も一切のワインを提供できません。ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナンでは、大幅に販売を制限せざるを得ません。
極限まで収穫を待つ
ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナンではリスクを冒して、収穫をかなり遅らせることで、満足のいくレベルの熟度を得ることができました。ある意味でブルゴーニュらしいフレッシュを味わう事はできます。出来る限りの事はしました。お好きな方にはご満足いただける品質でしょうし、2021という歴史に残るヴィンテージの個性を味わってもらえれば嬉しく思います。
ワインアドヴォケイト:92+ ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 92+ Reviewed by: William Kelley Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2025 - 2045
Guffens produced the 2021 Macon-Pierreclos Deuxieme Vendange de Chavigne from a second picking some three weeks later of second-generation fruit that had attained full maturity, along with the very early stages of botrytis (when the berries turn rose-colored but before they begin to degrade and shrivel), known in Maconnais parlance as "levroute." This has turned out beautifully, picking up additional texture and depth with elevage and revealing complex aromas of freshly baked bread, confit citrus, toasted nuts, white flowers and clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, with lively acids and a saline finish, it's built to age with grace.
Jean-Marie Guffens characterizes the 2021 vintage, when his vines were ravished by hail and then assaulted by disease, as one of the most challenging and demoralizing of his career; yet under these circumstances, he has produced wines of rare depth and dimension, and even if Guffens himself will, I suspect, never bring himself to love them, consumers will find much to appreciate. Turning to a happier subject, the 2020 vintage, revisited from bottle, was showing brilliantly. I wrote last year that 2020 appears to number among the greatest vintages of Guffens's career, and this tasting confirmed that. This accelerated growing season culminated in an extended harvest, adapted parcel by parcel, as hydric stress and some sites had delayed ripening. Guffens argues that picking late in years such as this tends to deliver lower pHs, as acidities concentrate by dehydration, and his viticulture-minimal hedging combined with cover crops-is well adapted to warm, dry conditions. The results in 2020 vindicate that contention, as pHs are incredibly low despite elevated levels of maturity. Yields were in keeping with the domaine's 10-year average, which is to say decidedly low by white Burgundy standards but not so exaggeratedly low as in 2019. The result is wines of extraordinary structure, concentration and energy, refuting the false choice sometimes posited between richness and freshness by uniting those characteristics in a strikingly compelling union. In short, these are brilliant wines, fit to rank alongside years such as 1983, 1985 and 1990 as one of Guffens's most virtuosic performances. Given Guffens's idiosyncratic way of labeling his wines, it's worth taking the time to remind readers about his methods (explored in detail in the End of May 2020 issue of The Wine Advocate). Selection is rigorous chez Guffens-Heynen; that means multiple picks within the same parcels (or "tries") and top cuvees based only on the first press juice, characterized by lower pHs and from particular parcels ("premier jus"). A cuvee invoking "premier jus," for example, is thus derived from the first pressing, with the heavier press fractions relegated to a "lesser" bottling. Similarly, a cuvee invoking "tri" or "tries" is derived from particularly prime picking(s) of fruit from within a particular vineyard. Armed with these principles, readers will find it easier to decode the domaine's different cuvees, which vary from year to year depending on what sort of conditions the vintage delivered and Guffens's sense of how to make the best wines possible in those conditions.
From the beginning, Jean-Marie Guffens has characterized his 2021 vintage, when his vines were ravished by hail and then assaulted by disease, as one of the most challenging and demoralizing of his career; yet, as I wrote when I tasted them from barrel, under these challenging circumstances, he has produced wines of rare depth and dimension; and even if Guffens himself will, I suspect, never bring himself to love them, consumers will find much to appreciate. Maturation on the lees, I should add, has brought additional depth and texture beyond what the wines showed a year ago. While revisiting the 2021s in bottle, we also tasted the new vintage from tank and barrel, and it is clear that 2022 is a different animal than 2021. The 2022s can't quite rival the brilliant 2020s, but they are exceptional wines that exhibit Guffens' capacity to combine elevated levels of ripeness with racy acids and chalky structuring extract to deliver power without weight to unparalleled effect. At this early stage, the vintage exhibits some parallels with the 2015s at this address. Sadly, hail in Vergisson reduced yields (but not quality), so there is no bottling of Les Croux this year. As ever, given Guffens's idiosyncratic way of labeling his wines, it's worth taking the time to remind readers about his methods (explored in detail in the End of May 2020 issue of The Wine Advocate). Selection is rigorous chez Guffens-Heynen; that means multiple picks within the same parcels (or "tries") and top cuvees based only on the first press juice, characterized by lower pHs and from particular parcels ("premier jus"). A cuvee invoking "premier jus," for example, is thus derived from the first pressing, with the heavier press fractions relegated to a "lesser" bottling. Similarly, a cuvee invoking "tri" or "tries" is derived from particularly prime picking(s) of fruit from within a particular vineyard. Armed with these principles, readers will find it easier to decode the domaine's different cuvees, which vary from year to year depending on what sort of conditions the vintage delivered and Guffens's sense of how to make the best possible wines in those conditions. Published: Oct 20, 2023
Le guide des meilleurs vins de France2015「ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナン」はRVFで最高評価の3ッ星を獲得。「ベタンヌ・ドゥソーヴ」でも最高評価の5ッ星を得ている。
当主の「ジャン・マリー・ギュファン」は1970年代に妻と共にブルゴーニュへ移住したベルギー人。ワイン造りとは関係ない環境にいた彼だが、一気にトップ生産者の仲間入りを果たしてしまう。皆が彼を「天才」と呼ぶ。試飲をしていても芸術家のように感覚でワインを判断していく。表現も独特。ワインのパワーを表現する。
1980年からは、ネゴシアン部門である「メゾン・ヴェルジェ」を手掛け、毎年異なる60キュヴェをリリース。「シャブリ」「コート・ドール」「マコン」等、各地の葡萄栽培家や造り手と情報交換をしながら、その年の買取り区画を決めていく。
「マコン・ピエールクロ ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ」は、ピエール・クロの区画より2段階目に収穫されたブドウから造られた白ワインです。
「まず、《エン・クレイジー》。キュヴェ全体を構成する低樹齢の葡萄。樽で発酵させた後、1月以降にタンクで熟成させたこのワインは、酸味があり、収量が少ないため非常に強い果実を持ち、余韻が長いのには驚きました。丘陵部は、かなり収穫が遅く、ヴィンテージとしてはかなり印象的な結果となり、思った以上に満足しています。皆さんは、どう感じるでしょう?私はこのワインを《ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ》(シャヴィーニュの第二の収穫)と呼ぶことにした。勿論、購入してくれた人に再び誤解を与える為です(笑)。最初で最後のワインでしょう。」 by.ジャン・マリー・ギュファン
Guffens Heynen Macon Pierreclos Deuxieme Vendange de Chavigne
ギュファン・エナン マコン・ピエールクロ ドゥジエム・ヴァンダンジュ・ド・シャヴィーニュ
生産地:フランス ブルゴーニュ マコネ ピエールクロ
原産地呼称:AOC. MACON PIERRECLOS
ぶどう品種:シャルドネ 100%
アルコール度数:13%
味わい:白ワイン 辛口
■2021年ヴィンテージ情報■
「苦労と努力の年」
ジャン・マリー・ギュファンからの手紙
親愛なる友人の皆さん。2021年は、私のワインメーカーとしての長いキャリアの中で最悪のヴィンテージである、と言って驚かせるつもりはない。年間を通して天候は壊滅的だった。収穫の為の僅かな休息は、極僅か最低限の必需品を確保することを可能にしただけでした。バルサックでは霜害によって葡萄は完全に破壊され、葡萄樹も痛み、将来の収穫を危うくするほどだった。2017年以来、3回の霜に見舞われた。
霜による大きな被害
ブルゴーニュでは、我々に運はなかった。ヴェルジッソンとピエール・クロの高樹齢の葡萄樹は霜によって大きな被害を受け、霜を免れたサン・ヴェランはその後、雹に見舞われた。酷過ぎる。トゥーレットも霜に見舞われたが、幸い他の地域ほどではなかった。3つのエステートの合計31haから481ヘクトリットル、1ha当たり平均15.5ヘクトリットルのモストを得た。シャトー・クロジオ(バルサック)では、辛口も甘口も一切のワインを提供できません。ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナンでは、大幅に販売を制限せざるを得ません。
極限まで収穫を待つ
ドメーヌ・ギュファン・エナンではリスクを冒して、収穫をかなり遅らせることで、満足のいくレベルの熟度を得ることができました。ある意味でブルゴーニュらしいフレッシュを味わう事はできます。出来る限りの事はしました。お好きな方にはご満足いただける品質でしょうし、2021という歴史に残るヴィンテージの個性を味わってもらえれば嬉しく思います。
ワインアドヴォケイト:92+ ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 92+ Reviewed by: William Kelley Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2025 - 2045
Guffens produced the 2021 Macon-Pierreclos Deuxieme Vendange de Chavigne from a second picking some three weeks later of second-generation fruit that had attained full maturity, along with the very early stages of botrytis (when the berries turn rose-colored but before they begin to degrade and shrivel), known in Maconnais parlance as "levroute." This has turned out beautifully, picking up additional texture and depth with elevage and revealing complex aromas of freshly baked bread, confit citrus, toasted nuts, white flowers and clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, with lively acids and a saline finish, it's built to age with grace.
Jean-Marie Guffens characterizes the 2021 vintage, when his vines were ravished by hail and then assaulted by disease, as one of the most challenging and demoralizing of his career; yet under these circumstances, he has produced wines of rare depth and dimension, and even if Guffens himself will, I suspect, never bring himself to love them, consumers will find much to appreciate. Turning to a happier subject, the 2020 vintage, revisited from bottle, was showing brilliantly. I wrote last year that 2020 appears to number among the greatest vintages of Guffens's career, and this tasting confirmed that. This accelerated growing season culminated in an extended harvest, adapted parcel by parcel, as hydric stress and some sites had delayed ripening. Guffens argues that picking late in years such as this tends to deliver lower pHs, as acidities concentrate by dehydration, and his viticulture-minimal hedging combined with cover crops-is well adapted to warm, dry conditions. The results in 2020 vindicate that contention, as pHs are incredibly low despite elevated levels of maturity. Yields were in keeping with the domaine's 10-year average, which is to say decidedly low by white Burgundy standards but not so exaggeratedly low as in 2019. The result is wines of extraordinary structure, concentration and energy, refuting the false choice sometimes posited between richness and freshness by uniting those characteristics in a strikingly compelling union. In short, these are brilliant wines, fit to rank alongside years such as 1983, 1985 and 1990 as one of Guffens's most virtuosic performances. Given Guffens's idiosyncratic way of labeling his wines, it's worth taking the time to remind readers about his methods (explored in detail in the End of May 2020 issue of The Wine Advocate). Selection is rigorous chez Guffens-Heynen; that means multiple picks within the same parcels (or "tries") and top cuvees based only on the first press juice, characterized by lower pHs and from particular parcels ("premier jus"). A cuvee invoking "premier jus," for example, is thus derived from the first pressing, with the heavier press fractions relegated to a "lesser" bottling. Similarly, a cuvee invoking "tri" or "tries" is derived from particularly prime picking(s) of fruit from within a particular vineyard. Armed with these principles, readers will find it easier to decode the domaine's different cuvees, which vary from year to year depending on what sort of conditions the vintage delivered and Guffens's sense of how to make the best wines possible in those conditions.
From the beginning, Jean-Marie Guffens has characterized his 2021 vintage, when his vines were ravished by hail and then assaulted by disease, as one of the most challenging and demoralizing of his career; yet, as I wrote when I tasted them from barrel, under these challenging circumstances, he has produced wines of rare depth and dimension; and even if Guffens himself will, I suspect, never bring himself to love them, consumers will find much to appreciate. Maturation on the lees, I should add, has brought additional depth and texture beyond what the wines showed a year ago. While revisiting the 2021s in bottle, we also tasted the new vintage from tank and barrel, and it is clear that 2022 is a different animal than 2021. The 2022s can't quite rival the brilliant 2020s, but they are exceptional wines that exhibit Guffens' capacity to combine elevated levels of ripeness with racy acids and chalky structuring extract to deliver power without weight to unparalleled effect. At this early stage, the vintage exhibits some parallels with the 2015s at this address. Sadly, hail in Vergisson reduced yields (but not quality), so there is no bottling of Les Croux this year. As ever, given Guffens's idiosyncratic way of labeling his wines, it's worth taking the time to remind readers about his methods (explored in detail in the End of May 2020 issue of The Wine Advocate). Selection is rigorous chez Guffens-Heynen; that means multiple picks within the same parcels (or "tries") and top cuvees based only on the first press juice, characterized by lower pHs and from particular parcels ("premier jus"). A cuvee invoking "premier jus," for example, is thus derived from the first pressing, with the heavier press fractions relegated to a "lesser" bottling. Similarly, a cuvee invoking "tri" or "tries" is derived from particularly prime picking(s) of fruit from within a particular vineyard. Armed with these principles, readers will find it easier to decode the domaine's different cuvees, which vary from year to year depending on what sort of conditions the vintage delivered and Guffens's sense of how to make the best possible wines in those conditions. Published: Oct 20, 2023